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Also working on the CNF and your new feature, the artifact supression. A bit confused here, should I choose the "normal cnf mode" or the "spectral substraction mode"?
Also the settings on attac and release-controls; I have always used attac(25) and release(50). But the manual shows attac(125), release(250), but also it tells in the text that 125 is good starting point for attac and 50-100 for release, but also that release should be higher value than attac. Don't make any sense for me.....
Also, any hints for good starting settings for the VVA to "sweeten-up" the sound as the last operation working on 78's???
Both the Tube flat preamp and the Solid State flat preamps have a flat frequency response and work nicely with the VPA. (As a matter of fact, the VPA will also work with non-flat RIAA preamps so long as it is set properly - - - see the users manual for details.) But, I think that better results are obtained using flat preamp transfers).
Also working on the CNF and your new feature, the artifact supression. A bit confused here, should I choose the "normal cnf mode" or the "spectral substraction mode"?
Also the settings on attac and release-controls; I have always used attac(25) and release(50). But the manual shows attac(125), release(250), but also it tells in the text that 125 is good starting point for attac and 50-100 for release, but also that release should be higher value than attac. Don't make any sense for me.....
Also, any hints for good starting settings for the VVA to "sweeten-up" the sound as the last operation working on 78's???
Normal CNF Mode is recommended for the Artifact Suppression Mode. The Attack control becomes diabled when using the AS mode and the Release Control becomes the "Artifacts" control. See the users manual for details about this.
The attack and release controls are for non-artifact suppression mode. The users manual must have an error in it if it says that the release value should be shorter than the attack value. It should be the other way around. Sorry about that - - -
As for the VVA, I usually start by selecting amongst the various presets that are available and then after finding one that I like, then I tweek the mixing control for the best balance of enhancement.
So you think that the CTP 1000 for 99 dollars do the job?
jan
Hi Jan:
Any of the CTP preamps will "do the job".
The solid-state CTP1000 will do it for less $$ than the tube version CTP 2000 but, if you want the "warmth" or "color" of a tube amp, you will have to do a couple of additional steps in DC7 to add it to a CTP1000 transfer (but this way you can dial in just the amount of "color" you want).
The CTP 2000 saves you the extra steps in DC7 but will always add the same amount of "color" to every transfer.
I'm with Craig on transferring flat with the CTP1000 and adding "color" to suit your tastes for the particular material being transferred. I chose to put the extra money into the balanced version of the solid-state pre-amp (CTP 1000B) which has even better specs -- but for some reason is no longer on the market.
Others in this forum prefer the CTP2000 and get great results - your taste, your choice, your money. And the really good news is that any of them (with or without your tweaking of DC7) will produce a better final product than with a $1000+ audiophile pre-amp! Have fun with your transfers.
Brian
Add "warmt" to the recording; but isn't just that something you should do AFTER the main sound restoration job is done?? In this case you "sweeten" up (or modify) the sound already in the recording stage of the process.....
When using the CD5-version I always used to do some EQ and the VVA in the very last stage....
Also, do you just connect your turnable directly into the box, and ftom the box straight into the computer recording stage? Guess you record, f.ex. a mono record (78,45 or LP) in stereo, and thereafter sonvert it into mono after the first stage, the impulsive noise, as Craig learned me......
Is this also your way???
Look foreward to hear and learn more about this. Surely going to purchase one of those pre-amps and use it for 78's, 45's & LP's....
Add "warmt" to the recording; but isn't just that something you should do AFTER the main sound restoration job is done?? In this case you "sweeten" up (or modify) the sound already in the recording stage of the process.....
Yes
Originally posted by Jan Myren
Also, do you just connect your turnable directly into the box, and ftom the box straight into the computer recording stage?
Yes
Originally posted by Jan Myren
Guess you record, f.ex. a mono record (78,45 or LP) in stereo, and thereafter sonvert it into mono after the first stage, the impulsive noise, as Craig learned me......Is this also your way???
Have sent an e-mail to Tracker Techn. as you mentioned in previous reply, but have not heard anything yet. It's about a week ago. I also mentioned that I need a special transformer, since we have 230V/50Hz in Norway. Maybe Craig can help me?
Diamond Cut sells a CTP1000B version. However, the external power transformer is rated for 120 VAC, 60 Hz input. Its output rating is 12 VDC @ 400 mA, which is probably a common device that you can purchase locally.
HI! Try to send an order under "contact us". But when i press "submit" I get error, that the page cannot be shown. any other suggestion?? I have anyway decided to buy a CTP1000.....
Best regards jan
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