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Transfers from disc to PC harddisc

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  • Transfers from disc to PC harddisc

    HI!

    I may have a somewhat strange question here; hope I made myself clear:

    Since there is about 10 meters from my turnable and flat pre-amp set-up to my PC, I sometimes use a stationary Philips CD-recorder (a CD player with recording facilities) that is connected directly to the line-out from the flat phono-pre-amp. I then transfer the 78's directly to CD through my flat phono pre-amp. Thereafter I take the CD to the PC and rip it into the DC7 using the rip function on the program. From there I start to do the normal restoration process.

    QUESTION; does this seem to be a good way to do this, or is there some obvious possibilities for quality loss? Should I rather use a long audio wire from the out put on the flat phono pre-amp and to the input on the hard disc on the PC??

    Comments, please..

    Best regards
    jan

  • #2
    That's the only way I do it for music I care about. I used to have a Lite-On and I now have a Tascam. I have never been disappointed.

    My computer has sound support on the motherboard, and it's subject to hums and buzzes from disc accesses, etc. Also, there's a constant low-level hiss on the right channel -- very quiet, but it would bother me. It's okay for spoken word, but it's not "hi-fi."


    EDIT: I should also say that I record on CD-RWs and then re-use them. It's a little tough to find "Audio" CD-RWs, but they're out there. The Tascam is a professional grade recorder and can take "Data" CD-RWs.
    Last edited by cromag; 02-11-2010, 05:45 PM.

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    • #3
      The only down-side to your method is that your transfers are limited to Red Book CD audio which is 44.1 kHz sample rate and 16 bits. There can be benefits to transferring and de-clicking using 96 kHz (and some folks like to use 24 bits too) and then converting later in the restoration process down to 44.1 kHz.

      The direct connection to your sound card would give you that capability (provided your sound card has those abilities).

      The way that I do it is via a hard drive based recorder. Often, I use an Edirol R-4 and that can be set up for 96 kHz (and 24 bit). Then, I just use the USB port on the Edirol to dump the data over onto my C drive for the restortion project.

      Craig
      Last edited by Craig Maier; 02-11-2010, 05:49 PM.
      "Who put orange juice in my orange juice?" - - - William Claude Dukenfield

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      • #4
        HI; MY sound card is a Soundblaster Audigy 2 Z5 digital with 24 bit. Should I then rather use a long audio wire for recording insted of that CD recordable player? Regards, Jan

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        • #5
          Jan,

          There is an advantage to 96 kHz transfers in terms of impulse noise discrimination. That said, you must use proper electrical system hygene to assure the minimization of line frequency noise injection into your system. Ideally, the turntable should feed directly into the flat phono preamplifier. Then, the long run should be on the output side of the flat phono preamplifier over to the line level input of your soundcard. If possible, it is also a good idea to plug all of the equipment into the same wall outlet in your home. That may require the use of a long extension cord and a power outlet strip to create that setup. These things will minimize the possibility of ground loop noise injection.

          Craig
          "Who put orange juice in my orange juice?" - - - William Claude Dukenfield

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          • #6
            Hi Jan,
            I have the same problem and I just use a longer RCA cord from the flat preamp to the computer. What you might consider is making your own RCA from a well shielded cabel (which is what I did). That way you know how well the cable is shielded (for example ~100% if each line is foil wrapped or braid shielded). I think that is the best way to go other than purchasing a thick high-grade long RCA cable but they will hit you in the hip pocket for not doing it yourself!
            At work I may look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm actually quite busy

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            • #7
              A good type of co-axial cable to try is the RG-58U which is really designed for 50 Ohm RF transmission. Most people do not use this for audio work. But, I have found it to be excellent for audio work and also, it is quite inexpensive on a per foot basis. Since it is of the braided shield variety, it provides a "leakproof" shielding of the inner conductor at the same time providing a low resistance because of its copper shield construction.

              Craig
              "Who put orange juice in my orange juice?" - - - William Claude Dukenfield

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              • #8
                Craig wrote : "you must use proper electrical system hygene".

                That's a great term !!!

                Man, the follow on comments I could make......


                Regards,
                Marc

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